Over a dozen official and unofficial trails crisscross the rugged north face. On the side facing Switzerland and Lac Léman, the Salève – a sheer cliff showing alternate layers of rock and forest – stands like one colossal mille-feuille on a tray of rich farmland, waiting to be devoured by hikers, rock climbers, alpine walkers, and mountain bikers. The other side of the mountain descends in grassy rolls to an Alpine valley overshadowed by the Môle and the Mont Blanc.
A Haven for Outdoor Adventure Enthusiasts
Though on a clear day the views of the city, the Alps, and the Jura Mountains to the north are unparalleled, it is not simply photo-snapping tourists who flock to the top. The locals come here too. In fact, many a Genevois loves to escape for a Saturday promenade into the sylvan hills. They come to breathe the fresh air, to feel the warm sun on their shoulders, and to marvel at the myriad wildflowers – including gold buttons, violets, and even wild raspberries – scattered across meadows and along the forest floor.
And for those who can’t resist the opportunity to ingest a healthy shot of heart-pounding, head-rushing adrenaline, parasailing is another of the mountain’s primary draws for adventurers. With lessons, tandem flights, and solo journeys (for the initiated) available, parasailers frequent the summit and the surrounding skies all summer long. The familiar sight of parasailers lined up on the Astroturf airstrip, awaiting their turns for takeoff, inspires both awe and terror.
Ascending the Salève
Alright, so hoofing it isn’t imperative. There’s also the “téléphérique” cable car available to whisk climbers up the mountain in less than five minutes (€6.40 or 10 CHF, one way – though holders of a Geneva Public Transport pass are eligible for a 50% reduction). Upon disembarking, the upmarket, glass-walled restaurant Le Panoramique entices passengers, tempting hungry stomachs with its menu and thirsty eyes with its vistas.
For hikers, sturdy shoes and drinking water are indispensable; trail snacks and a camera, recommended. Some people use Nordic or "trekking" poles to augment the fitness benefits of the exercise, but they are not obligatory from a technical standpoint. Paths to the top are varied, steep and rocky at places, but pleasant and never interminably difficult. The summit is accessible (by paved roads) to car and bicycle travelers as well.
One complaint often voiced by newcomers to the trails of the Salève involves the perceived dearth of signage along the way. Climbers get lost, wander around pursuing assumed trails for multiple quarters of an hour, and finally – discouraged – head back down, having failed their summit attempt. Markers do exist, but they don’t jump out and do a song and dance routine. Keep an eye out for indicators such as horizontal red and white stripes, yellow or orange spray painted dots or arrows, and yellow arrows on a green field, pointing the way of the trail.
Exploring the Summit
Upon reaching the sunlit, grass-covered mesa after an invigorating climb, perhaps the most appealing prospect is stretching out in the sunshine for a nap in the fresh mountain air. But from the edge, panoramic views stretch out for miles across Geneva and the valley of the Haute Savoie. Far below, a patchwork quilt of fields of grain and sunflowers offsets the great blue expanse of Lac Léman with its trademark fountain, the 143-meter high Jet d’Eau. Without a doubt, some exploring up top is in order.
As mentioned before, parasailing is a principal attraction (for the daredevils as well as the observers), but there are other exciting options as well. No less enjoyable (and with only a slightly lower intimidation factor) than flying – courtesy of powerful air currents which sweep the parasailers up into the air – hundreds of feet above the ground, are rock climbing, all-terrain biking (the téléphérique staff willingly transport accompanied bikes free of charge) and walking around some 130 kilometers of rolling trails.
A restaurant near the radio tower offers patrons front and back patio seating under umbrellas. With views of the Alps (including Mont Blanc, when it isn’t hiding in cloud) to the south and the Jura to the north, this makes for a pleasant rest break.
Enjoy a cold beer or Orangina (€2.90), espresso with a slice of homemade tart (€4), or perhaps try the hot plat du jour for €12. The portions are respectable, the offerings (with such fare as beef carpaccio and the Geneva specialty filets du perche) tasteful, and the prices – considering they’ve got a tight corner on the market there, at the top of this imposing and beloved mountain – stomachable.
For a hike up, lunch at the top, and a cable-car ride down, daytrippers can expect to spend at least four hours on the Salève. Access is by Bus 8 (direction: Veyrier-Douane) to the French border, and then by foot – across the train tracks and through the tiny village of Etrembières – to the trailhead. Any summer holiday in Geneva lasting longer than half a day merits a trip up the Salève, especially by foot. As for how to come back down again – well, that’s up for debate.
Audrey Heald - Audrey Heald has been blogging since before it was cool, or perhaps since right about the time that it started to become cool, and has ...
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